a most humble fish

fresh anchovies are a plenty at the moment!

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This tiny most humble fish has a passionate following in the Black Sea region of Türkiye. Also for Istanbulites like myself the best fresh anchovies come from there. We have a tendency to believe that it looses something of its peculiar taste as it migrates from the Black Sea through Bosphorus and Dardanelles straits down to the Mediterranean. As much as for the rest of the world anchovies are considered a Mediterranean delicacy, yet for us it is a treasure from the Black Sea. How peculiar all of this, it just reminds us food is all about geography.

Winter is the time for us to enjoy the bounty of this delicate fish, with their subtle, briny aroma evoking the essence of the sea. Imagine the shimmering, silvery scales of fresh anchovies, glistening in the nets of the fishermen, they are, unlike their preserved counterparts, offer a sublime taste that is both light and profoundly flavourful. Their flesh is tender, almost buttery, with a whisper of the sea, free from the overt saltiness of cured varieties. When you bite into a perfectly prepared anchovy, you are greeted with a burst of marine freshness, a delicate yet distinct flavour that hits your palate.

Fresh anchovies pair beautifully with a variety of ingredients, enhancing and elevating all the way. Cooking with them can be a celebration of the sea's bounty. Obviously lightly dusted with flour (coarse corn flour in Black Sea region) and swiftly fried, they become crispy morsels, perfect for devouring. Alternatively, they can be grilled simply with a brush of olive oil and a sprinkle of herbs, their flesh becoming wonderfully smoky and succulent. These underrated gems of the sea are most versatile and can be transformed into many gastronomic pleasures. You can have fresh anchovies marinated in the finest extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of sea salt, and a dash of lemon zest, their flavours mingling and intensifying as they rest. Then it only needs to be served atop a crusty slice of sourdough bread, each bite a harmonious blend of textures and tastes.

In every sense, fresh anchovies are a true treasure of the sea, a delight that beckons you to indulge, explore, and savour. They are a testament to the fact that sometimes, the smallest things can bring the greatest joy.